“Give me experiences,” she said. A few weekends ago, Nicolas and I went to Copenhagen with his younger sister, Kaja. It was our belated Christmas present to her after she’d asked for “experiences” instead of tangible gifts over the holidays. Of course, this was right down our alley and we didn’t hesitate to buy ourselves some cheap air tickets to Denmark. After all, none of us had been to Copenhagen and with our international upbringing and insatiable wanderlust, adding a new city to our checklist was an easy bribe.
Now the funny thing is, despite the fact we were all super excited to be there, it’s been such a busy few weeks with Nicolas and I coming back from a climbing trip to Bømlo (West Coast Norway), India before that, Airbnb guests to look after and Kaja in her final weeks of university in Lausanne. Usually, we spend a bit more time researching and planning out our trips, getting all excited! But I have to admit, up until a few hours before our flight, we had no idea what we were going to do, where we wanted to go and how best to make the most of our time. All we knew was that we were meeting Joachim (Nicolas’ brother-in-law) to pick up keys to their new apartment, located right in the heart of town, just opposite the King’s Gardens.
Thankfully, on the Thursday morning, I went to meet my good friend, Rebecca. She’s a brilliant and conscientious graphic designer and photographer, and has been my co-working buddy here in Oslo for the last year. This would be our last time drinking coffee and brainstorming together because she is off on a new adventure, living out of a backpack for the indefinite future. Anyway, it turns out (or more like I forgot) she lived in Copenhagen for a few years, it’s actually one of her favourite European cities AND she’s vegan. So she did us the biggest favour ever: she wrote us her personal coffee and food guide to Copenhagen, with extra notes on her favourite neighbourhoods and places to go. This is the outcome of our treasure hunt. I created the map from her notes using My Maps on Google.
This post is dedicated to her. THANK YOU REBECCA!
Dinner at 42 Raw
42 Raw was the first place we went to in Copenhagen, after dropping our stuff off at the apartment. What we ate: Burgers and Juice. A little pricey for a semi fast food, over-the-counter, juice bar but one of those places you can just nip in and out off for a quick meal and catch up. It’s very feminine chic. When we walked in here, it was all girls and Nicolas was the only guy sitting with me in the corner. Not that he complained, haha.
Coffee & Dessert at Paludan
Didn’t grab a photo here at Paludan as I was just enjoying a quiet moment with my hubby, seriously devouring this delicious carrot cake, hot coffee and books. Lots and lots of books! It’s like eating inside a library or bookstore. Delightful!
Coffee & Breakfast at Atelier September
Atelier September was our first breakfast all together on the Saturday. What we ate: juicy avocado toast w/ citrusy lemon zest and chives (for me), fresh pomegranate slices with blueberries and muesli (Kaja), soft-boiled eggs, cheese and toast (Nicolas), coffee (everyone). I think the photos say it all. The food at this place was delicious and so charmingly presented! The only problem? We wanted more!
Coffee & Blueberry Crumble at X
We stumbled upon this cute little cafe while walking across town towards the Western District. Now this is a funny story as the only reason we decided to go in was because Kaja and I needed a place to wait for Nicolas, who had to run back and pay for our meal at the previous place (Atelier September). See in Copenhagen, it seems to be the norm whereby people pay for their food at the end of their meal, even if it’s counter service. So obviously, we forgot and mistakenly did an eat and run. Oops! Anyway, it was all sorted in the end (they didn’t even realise we had left without paying) and we all got to enjoy a second breakfast 😛 Unfortunately, we didn’t catch the name of this place! Does anybody know??
Hummus at Western Market
This place was a little disappointing considering how far we walked to get here. (Copenhagen is a little like New York. Super flat and deceptively big.) That said, we did arrive at 3pm so maybe the lunch-time rush had already been and gone. It just seemed like a struggling indoor food market with half of the stalls closed and with no lights. Imagine Mathallen in Oslo, but empty. That said, we did share some hummus here because we had skipped lunch and were starving.
Pizza at Mother, the Meatpacking District
So my notes for this part of the trip were: Vesterbro. Record stores. Grunge. Vesterbro was the area, which translates to Western Bridge in English. Record stores because you’ll find some here. Grunge because, that’s what it felt like walking around. What else do you expect of the old meatpacking district? Now, it’s of course very hipster and popular. Here at Mother, we had Nicolas’ favourite – pizza! And mother mia, it was good.
Coffee & Breakfast at Kalaset
Kalaset is breakfast, “grandma-style”. This was probably our favourite place to eat just because it was so cosy, close to home and made our bellies (and each other) very happy first thing in the morning. When we read about it, the description said the cafe/restaurant was inspired by the owner’s grandmother’s cooking and recipes. Well, you definitely feel that here. Beware though: it gets very busy (understandably!) at the weekend so be prepared to line up if you’re not there first thing.
Beer & Cider at Christiania
This is the super chilled, hippy part of town across the bridge. No photos allowed. Visit and you’ll see why 😉 PS – worth renting a city bike and cycling there or back. Though be careful, they’re really heavy and engine-powered. Freaked me out!
Lunch at Døp, by the Round Tower
Seriously obsessed with these veggie french dogs right in the heart of town. I mean, how awesome that you can just walk up to this little hotdog stand and get the best vegetarian hot dogs stuffed in a baguette. It’s so rare to get served veggie dogs in public. Just because we don’t eat meat, doesn’t mean we don’t miss the fast food 😉 So, Døp, thank you for thinking of us!
Ice cream sandwiches at Nicecream
Yup, still eating! So head on over to Nicecream at Elmegade 30, across Dronning Louises Bro (it’s a bridge) for these delicious vegan ice cream sandwiches. When we were there, there was music playing in the streets, people sitting outside, food trolleys along the road. Good, fun ambience. Sort of like the hipster, Notting Hill area of Copenhagen. Did I mention vegan ice cream?
Dinner at Souls
Eat like you give a fork. That’s their motto here at Souls, another delicious plant-based restaurant in Copenhagen. Here we shared the Viking Salad (souls ‘meat’ balls, kidney bean spread, pickled onions, cashews, broccoli, olives, lentils, mix of super greens and truffle dressing), Supreme Salad (tofu steak, sweet potatoes, hummus, avocado, quinoa, edamame beans, mix of super greens and cashew-curry dressing) and Soul Burger (caramelised onions, pesto, grilled zucchini, and rosemary dressing).
Coffee & Breakfast at Kalaset (again!)
Told you, we loved this place for breakfast. We had to come back one more time before our trip was over. We even waited outside in the rain for 20 minutes until a table freed up.
And, here we come to the end of our Copenhagen Food Trip. Posting all these photos has made me really hungry so I’m off now to have lunch (home-made vegan burgers with toasted brioche buns). Once again, thank you Joachim and Kelsi from letting us stay at your place! And thank you Rebecca for being such a great virtual hostess! Tak for maten! I think it’s safe to say we’ll not forgot our indulgent gastronomy experience here anytime soon…